"Just paddling out into big surf is total commitment. You can't just call time-out and stroll on into the beach if you don't like the way things are going."
Playa Santa Teresa has given me the biggest ass-kickings in my life, as well as some of the best rides. Unlike Playa Tamarindo, Playa Santa Teresa is not sheltered within a bay; it is exposed to whatever the Pacific Ocean throws its way. This, as I quickly learned, makes for consistently steeper, heavier and faster waves.
My first impression of the break at Santa Teresa was that it was impossible to get to. While I had no trouble getting to those in Playas Tamarindo and Avellanas, the paddle-out to the break in Santa Teresa was another story. Crashing waves were rolling-in every two to four seconds. This made it very difficult to make any headway. Trust me when I say that duck-diving a 6'6" fun-board takes a lot of energy. Now imagine doing it every few seconds in between paddling toward the break. After persevering through the burning desire to turn around and head back to shore, I finally made it to the break where I could relax and catch my breath.
The conditions were perfect. Sets were rolling in one after the other. The absence of wind made for glassy waves breaking perfectly both right and left. At first, the height of these waves was no larger than that I was accustomed to. However, they were definitely much thicker and more powerful. As I sat on my board waiting for the right wave and, still, catching my breath, a freak set was rolling in.
The first wave of the set was easily ten feet and growing as I watched it in bewilderment. In this situation one must make a decision to avoid having the wave crash on top of you: either catch the wave, or paddle past it. I opted for the latter and began paddling as hard as I possibly could toward it and just managed to duck-dive through it. Unfortunately, I was not prepared for the even larger wave directly behind it as it lifted me up, tossed me over the lip, and smashed me against the ocean floor.
As I lay pinned against the bottom the wisdom contained in the flick "Point Break" dawned on me and I managed to crack a smile. Specifically, I was thinking of the scene in which Patrick Swayze and his 'bros' are describing to Keanu Reeves that when surfing big waves, "you can't just call time-out and stroll on into the beach if you don't like the way things are going." When those freak, rogue waves came out of nowhere and towered over me there was no time-out - I had to make some quick decisions.
After a few days I managed to dial-in the waves in Santa Teresa. The drop into the waves was incredibly steep and I've never before had so much speed ripping down their green faces. Falling off the board at this speed felt like hitting pavement.
The session on the eve of Halloween was particularly memorable. People began to gather on the beach in front of the break to watch both the surfers and the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. Not only was it the most beautiful sunset I've seen in Costa Rica, but it was also my best surf session to date.
After a slow start, everything just seemed to click. I was catching wave after wave after wave. I was dialing-in my top- and bottom-turns both on right- and left- breaking waves. Then, as I sat on my board furthest out from shore of the surfers, a massive wave was peaking directly behind me. I quickly lined myself up, paddled and hopped on my board. As I began ripping left across the face of the wave I noticed water barreling over my head as if I was in a washing machine. Yet I could see the green face of the wave and a piece of shore straight ahead of me. Then it registered - I was surfing inside a tube. But, as quickly as it happened, it ended. I was picked-up, thrown over the lip and smashed to the ocean floor, again... I don't think I've ever had such a big adrenaline rush; I rode the high for hours afterward, unable to stop myself from smiling.
I finally understand the excitement and description the surfer provides in the following video that went viral several years ago.
I've had a blast here in Santa Teresa, and I highly recommend everyone to check it out if you're visiting Costa Rica. I'm sad to be leaving, but I'll surely be back someday!
- Bonfire scene in the film "Point Break"
Playa Santa Teresa has given me the biggest ass-kickings in my life, as well as some of the best rides. Unlike Playa Tamarindo, Playa Santa Teresa is not sheltered within a bay; it is exposed to whatever the Pacific Ocean throws its way. This, as I quickly learned, makes for consistently steeper, heavier and faster waves.
 |
| Playa Santa Teresa |
My first impression of the break at Santa Teresa was that it was impossible to get to. While I had no trouble getting to those in Playas Tamarindo and Avellanas, the paddle-out to the break in Santa Teresa was another story. Crashing waves were rolling-in every two to four seconds. This made it very difficult to make any headway. Trust me when I say that duck-diving a 6'6" fun-board takes a lot of energy. Now imagine doing it every few seconds in between paddling toward the break. After persevering through the burning desire to turn around and head back to shore, I finally made it to the break where I could relax and catch my breath.
The conditions were perfect. Sets were rolling in one after the other. The absence of wind made for glassy waves breaking perfectly both right and left. At first, the height of these waves was no larger than that I was accustomed to. However, they were definitely much thicker and more powerful. As I sat on my board waiting for the right wave and, still, catching my breath, a freak set was rolling in.
The first wave of the set was easily ten feet and growing as I watched it in bewilderment. In this situation one must make a decision to avoid having the wave crash on top of you: either catch the wave, or paddle past it. I opted for the latter and began paddling as hard as I possibly could toward it and just managed to duck-dive through it. Unfortunately, I was not prepared for the even larger wave directly behind it as it lifted me up, tossed me over the lip, and smashed me against the ocean floor.
As I lay pinned against the bottom the wisdom contained in the flick "Point Break" dawned on me and I managed to crack a smile. Specifically, I was thinking of the scene in which Patrick Swayze and his 'bros' are describing to Keanu Reeves that when surfing big waves, "you can't just call time-out and stroll on into the beach if you don't like the way things are going." When those freak, rogue waves came out of nowhere and towered over me there was no time-out - I had to make some quick decisions.
 |
| If you haven't seen this movie, watch it now... You're missing out. |
After a few days I managed to dial-in the waves in Santa Teresa. The drop into the waves was incredibly steep and I've never before had so much speed ripping down their green faces. Falling off the board at this speed felt like hitting pavement.
The session on the eve of Halloween was particularly memorable. People began to gather on the beach in front of the break to watch both the surfers and the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. Not only was it the most beautiful sunset I've seen in Costa Rica, but it was also my best surf session to date.
 |
| Sunset in Santa Teresa |
After a slow start, everything just seemed to click. I was catching wave after wave after wave. I was dialing-in my top- and bottom-turns both on right- and left- breaking waves. Then, as I sat on my board furthest out from shore of the surfers, a massive wave was peaking directly behind me. I quickly lined myself up, paddled and hopped on my board. As I began ripping left across the face of the wave I noticed water barreling over my head as if I was in a washing machine. Yet I could see the green face of the wave and a piece of shore straight ahead of me. Then it registered - I was surfing inside a tube. But, as quickly as it happened, it ended. I was picked-up, thrown over the lip and smashed to the ocean floor, again... I don't think I've ever had such a big adrenaline rush; I rode the high for hours afterward, unable to stop myself from smiling.
I finally understand the excitement and description the surfer provides in the following video that went viral several years ago.
I've had a blast here in Santa Teresa, and I highly recommend everyone to check it out if you're visiting Costa Rica. I'm sad to be leaving, but I'll surely be back someday!
No comments:
Post a Comment